Wednesday, November 30, 2011


Ben, my friend from Los Angeles, begins his search for a jacket in the Dongmyo flea market.

During my time in the Republic of Korea I've really started to enjoy just going somewhere that sounds interesting and seeing what's there. This is how I found the War Memorial of Korea and its amazing collection of military vehicles, historical displays and interactive exhibits. Another place I discovered was the flea market near Dongmyo station, which I had learned about from a mention on the route map for Line 6. Though in all honesty it's much easier to get to this place from Sinchang (where SCH is) by just staying on Line 1 the whole way. To get there, just get off at the station immediately after Dongdaemun.

So far I'd found that clothing is pretty cheap in Korea since there's a large textile industry. However all the clothes I'd seen in street markets - or sijang as they're called in Korean - were new products. There really doesn't seem to be much of a market for second-hand goods here in Korea as there is back home. No Goodwill-like stores, though there is one store in Hongdae called 'Used Clothing' that's actually a toy store of sorts.


Everything you see is just 10,000 won, or about $10 US.


The flea market is very popular on weekends especially.


A street vendor's selection of clothing.


Some of the clothing for sale in the flea market is new, but the vast majority is used. As you walk through the winding side streets that the market populates, there are a large number of storefronts specializing in used textiles. Often they are on racks like you'd find at any other Korean clothing store, but the selection is far more eclectic. What I saw was a mix of US and Korean military surplus uniforms and civillian clothing, some of which was peculiar. Like ski jackets of incredibly bright colors arranged in camoflauge patterns - probably the most terrible camoflauge one could wear if one was trying to hide.


In the center of the flea market area is a street lined with vendors who have their wares on tables, racks and on tarps. Some even just had the used garments in huge piles which you can pick through and find something very inexpensively if it actually fits. Again, Koreans are smaller than Americans. There are deals to be found for sure - my friend Ben found a nice leather jacket for 10,000 Won (just under $10).


Elsewhere you can find all manner of products for sale. Many vendors offer electronics ranging from remote controls and irons to old video game systems, calculators and more. Some of these electronics may not work well or at all, and one vendor actually stopped us from touching an item to inspect it. Other items you'll find are just as eclectic as the selection of clothing for sale - a traditional Korean drum, an old globe, Korean records and even a German military style helmet. Be prepared for large crowds of almost entirely middle aged and older Koreans, who mill about and sift through the stalls and stores in search of savings. If you can speak Korean a bit and barter the price down, more power to you. While I did find a pair of tennis shoes as a spare to my American ones, they're not terribly good quality. But then for 10,000 won what do you expect?

Used electronics for sale amongst myriad other products nearby.


A traditional-style gate that leads to more traditional architecture in this well-kept secret of a park amidst the flea market.

Hiking gear for sale next to Korean herbal remedies.

Need sunglasses?

An example of the market's eclectic collection of goods.

One of the piles of stuff you can dig through to find really cheap items (usually each piece is one to two thousand Won).

That's just an airsoft BB pistol there amongst the cameras and other items.

Authentic lounge lizard shoes!

Another thing that I've noticed is that Korea's outlook on history is defined as being 'history of the people' - I may have mentioned it before, but this means that their history is more conernced with everywhere Korean people have lived. This is in opposition to the American 'history of the land', where there's more of a focus on the current boundaries of the US and the people who live within it. One way this comes out is through land disputes Korea has with other countries.


And by other countries I mean Japan. Obviously there's still a lingering dislike of Japan after Korea was occupied for 40 years by the Japanese Empire, and its culture disregarded and smothered. But Korea lives and its culture remains. Now, nearly 70 years after WW II ended and Korea was freed, the islands off the southeast of South Korea remain a sore point. Both nations claim these islands as their own and are very insistent about their legitimate claims. Korea calls them the Dokdo Islands, and you can see a display about them at Itaewon station. The poster behind the model proclaims 'Dokdo is Korean territory' in Korean, English and of all things, Japanese. It's as if it's a way to poke the Japanese in the eye.


What do I think about this debate? As an American I can't possibly hope to understand the true significance of these islands to Korea and Japan. I do know that despite everything that's happened Korean and Japanese people get along decently enough. Just go to Myeongdong and you'll see signs everywhere inviting Japanese tourists in their native writing. Sales girls call out 'irashaimasse!' and speak in Japanese to entice shoppers from the Land of the Rising Sun to spend money in their stores. The governments on the other hand may have more trouble emulating this. But to quarrel over a couple of islands with little apparent value for resources seems silly and childish to me. What happens to these islands, if anyone gains legitimized control of them, will be interesting to see.










































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